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We were indeed
fortunate to have Charlotte Frey as a guide during our very short
stay in Heidelberg as she did give us more than an overview of
this wonderful University town. As we were exploring the beautiful
city of Heidelberg, we briefly stopped in the Old Town to see the
building that Louis XIV did not destroy and where stands the Hotel
Ritter - one of the famous landmarks of the Old Town square which
also has a gothic style Church of the Holy Ghost. Further down is
the Old Bridge which offers a spectacular view of the Heidelberg
Castle on the other side of the Neckar River. The funicular
station which is the gateway to Heidelberg Castle is also located
less than 5 minutes from the Old Town Square. The original
building was built over 400 years ago by a cloth dealer and has
undergone several renovations retaining its original architectural
beauty and renaissance style which makes the Hotel Ritter one of
the most historic and artistic buildings of this charming town and
is an ideal place to stay especially as it is located right in the
centre and in close proximity to major tourist attractions. |
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As
we walked towards the Old Bridge we came across the Cafe Konditorei
Knosel - the makers of the Heidelberg Student's Kisses - praline
nougat chocolate filling on an exquisite wafer bottom and coated
in delicious dark chocolate. Café Knosel houses Heidelberg's
oldest confectioner's store and was established in 1863 and was a
meeting place for the residents of Heidelberg. Knosel, the
dedicated chocolatier was a master confectioner and young ladies
who used to attend Heidelberg's finishing schools loved his sweet
chocolate delights and used to flock to the store.Fridolin Knosel came up with a brilliant idea
of inventing a delicious chocolate delight called the Student's
Kiss which if given as a present, was a discreet way to show your
affection. The tradition of this original recipe continues since
1863 when it was first invented and today is a sweet symbol and
charming souvenir of Heidelberg and captures the hearts of
generation after generation. Regretfully for us, the café was
closed during our visit. However our guide was sweet enough to
send us the Heidelberger Studentenkua - as it is known in Germany
- by parcel post to remind us of the affection shown by the people
of this wonderful and charming city. The Student’s Kisses is one
thing that is indigenous to Heidelberg. As we started
walking towards the historic Old Bridge which was originally
constructed in 1284 and later replaced by a wooden bridge in 1788,
we noticed a Bridge Monkey or Bruckenaffe on the south bank of the
bridge. This carved monkey from medieval times was made of bronze
by sculptor Gernot Rumpf and was installed here in 1979 and
carries a mirror and a small inscription in German which
translates as “Why are you looking at me? Look in the mirror and
you will see more of the same.” Today, however, many tourists do a
photo stop here and touch the mirror held by the monkey as it is
believed to bring you luck. The bridge monkey in the Heidelberg
dates back to the 15 Century. |
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Just across the Old
Bridge in the Old Town is the famous Vetter Alt Heidelberg, a
famous Brauhaus and a must-visit place in Heidelberg not only for
its ambience but the fine cuisine served. Here you will get
traditional German food and it is extremely popular with tourists
as they brew their own beer. A meal would cost you in the vicinity
of 6 to 8 Euros; good value for money indeed. Further down, we
came across the Holy Ghost Church which was started in the 1400s
and then it was Catholic and now it is Heidelberg's main
Protestant church. Until 1623, the church's galleries contained
Europe's largest collection of handwritten books and documents,
the Biblioteca Platina. After passing the Rathaus or Town Hall
where civil marriages are held, we saw the statue of the Madonna
on the Corn Market Square which has been part of Heidelberg since
1718 and it was the Jesuits who built this statue here to motivate
people of Heidelberg to switch to Catholicism. Next we took the 90
seconds funicular up to the Heidelberg Castle. The Heidelberg
Castle, now a ruin, is one of the most important of the
Renaissance structures and was built before 1214 AD and later
expanded into two castles. Thereafter it was destroyed by
lightening, wars and fires before being rebuilt. The castle is
located approximately 260 feet on a hillside known as Konigstuhl
and you can get a spectacular view of the old town from this
castle. The highlight of the tour was the story of Frederick V,
also known as the “Winter King” who at 16 years fell in love with the
daughter of the King of England, Elizabeth Stuart and he built for
her an English building connected by a tower as much as 7 metres
thick and also commissioned the Elizabeth Gate at the peace
garden. |
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He was
nicknamed the Winter King as his rule merely lasted one winter
after which there was the Thirty Years War – the most brutal war
in German history. Later, Liselotte, the granddaughter of
Frederick V, was born in Heidelberg and grew up in Hannover but
often returned to Heidelberg. The other highlight was the biggest
wine barrel in the world which can be visited in the cellar of the
Heidelberg Castle and was originally built in 1591. Thereafter,
the barrel was made bigger in 1751 and can store almost the 225000
litres of wine. In the 18 Century, the vat's guardian was a dwarf
named Perkeo, a court jester with tremendous thirst for wine.
Perkeo had the capacity of consuming eighteen bottles of wine to
empty the cask for almost fifty years till one day he consumed
water and that led to his demise. Today, an antique statue of
Perkeo stands next to the Great Cask. Such interesting legends are
part of the guided tours of the castle.Our last stop was at the
North Patio - the large balcony which overlooks the Old Town. Here
one finds a footprint and local legends say that the footprint was
that of a knight who tried to save the princess from a burning
castle. Another legend is that the Queen was having an affair and
the King caught them in the act. |
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The man leapt out of
the window and the footprint is where his foot first hit the
ground. However, the latest legend is that those who step on the
footprint stencil will definitely return back to Heidelberg again
and that's what all of us did before bidding adieu to this
wonderful city and heading to the southwest corner of Germany – Freiburg. Freiburg lies on the western edge of the Black Forest
and is an excellent hub for day trips whether it is to see the
Black Forest or Europa Park in Rust or even day trips into France
or Switzerland as Freiburg although in Germany is actually on the
crossroad of France, Germany and Switzerland. It took us less than
a couple of hours to reach Freiburg from Heidelberg and we had to
change trains en route at Karlsruhe. We arrived into Freiburg a
little before 1500 hours and later that evening we did a short
walking tour of Freiburg and its Old Town. Freiburg is one of the
“greenest” cities in Germany with its diversity of forests and
vineyards surrounding this region of diverse landscapes. From the
altitude of Black Forest to the alluvial forests by the Rhine
River, Freiburg is a city worth a visit not only for being the
capital city of the Black Forest region but also the Gothic
cathedral and the Munster Market which is held near the square of
the cathedral. The unique part of the city of Freiburg is the
famous Freiburg “Bächle” or streams which run through the town for
a total of 9 kilometres including 5.1 kilometres above ground. The
pavements of the Old Town are decorated with mosaics made of
stones taken from gravel pits along the Rhine. The mosaics in
front of many stores depict guild symbols or typical tools of that
particular trade which is again peculiar to Freiburg. The town has
its own University and hence it is bustling with cafés, pubs as
well as vibrant night life. Additionally, the town is an important
hub to visit one of Europe's largest theme parks – Europa Park in
Rust. In our next issue we would be talking about exploring
Freiburg and its environ. |
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To be continued |
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